Bucatini Carbonara
There are lots of conversations in food media, by people much smarter than myself, about “authenticity” in cooking and what that even means. The trend seems to be that we’re shifting away from the word, which is a relief, since I’m about to share my go-to Carbonara recipe and who knows what a real Italian might have to say about this being quote/unquote “authentic”?
Believe me, I learned my lesson when I posted Marcella Hazan’s famous tomato sauce with butter on Instagram and half the comments when: “Where’s the garlic? Where’s the basil? What kind of Italian chef would call this sauce?” Ummm… only the most prominent Italian cookbook author in the history of American letters? People have strong opinions when it comes to regional dishes. So, even though I’m Jewish, I’m crossing myself before I proceed.
This particular Carbonara journey began after I had lunch with beloved cookbook author Leah Koenig at Untable in Carroll Gardens and we stumbled into a store called MozzLab and I found guanciale (or: cured pork cheek). As much as I make Carbonara, and I make it a lot (ever since this post), I’ve never made it with guanciale, the way they make it in Italy. (I was about to say the “authentic” way.) So I was very excited to put this guanciale to work.
The recipes that I consulted online were all very similar. In a large bowl, you mix two eggs and two egg yolks with a bunch of grated cheese. Some will say it’s exclusively Pecorino, others will say it’s a mixture of Pecorino and Parmesan. I went for the latter because I liked the distinct flavors they both bring: the Pecorino sharp and earthy, the Parmesan a bit more nutty. You also add a copious amount of black pepper.
Then it’s just a question of cooking your guanciale. I cut up about half of the package you saw above into small cubes, sautéed that in olive oil until crisp, then stopped the cooking with a glass of dry white wine. Then I cooked bucatini in salted water and when it was al dente, I added it to the pan with the cheese and the eggs and the black pepper and immediately started stirring with a pair of tongs. Then I poured in the guanciale and wine mixture (which I allowed to reduce to a syrup) and continued to stir stir stir until everything was creamy. You can see it all happening in this video:
To finish, I topped everything with more Pecorino and black pepper and went to town. The guanciale definitely gave everything a more, dare I say it, authentic flavor? Damn it. Sorry. Let’s just say it was a bit funkier and more complex than if you just added bacon. So the next time you’re at an Italian market, grab some guanciale, Pecorino, and bucatini, and make a dish that’ll transport you to Italy. I’m fairly sure it’s a real place.
Bucatini Carbonara
My take on an Italian classic, featuring guanciale, Pecorino, and bucatini.
Ingredients:
Kosher salt
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese (plus more for later)
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan, aged at least a few months
Freshly ground black pepper (a good amount)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 pound guanciale, cut into small cubes
A glass (about 3/4ths a cup) of dry white wine, preferably Italian, something you can drink the rest of while you cook and eat
1 pound bucatini, spaghetti, or any other pasta you enjoy with a Carbonara
instructions:
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season it with kosher salt (just a few tablespoons; the ingredients in this dish are already very salty.)
In large bowl, whisk together the eggs, the egg yolks, the cheeses, and about a tablespoon or two of coarsely ground black pepper (depending on how peppery you like it) until everything is incorporated.
In a small skillet, add a splash of olive oil and the guanciale. Turn up the heat to medium and cook slowly until the guanciale’s rendered its fat and it’s starting to turn golden brown. Carefully pour in the glass of wine (it’ll sputter and spurt) and reduce until the liquid in the pan is syrupy. Set aside.
Drop your pasta into the boiling water and cook just until al dente (usually a minute less than the cooking instructions). Use tongs to lift it into the bowl with the eggs and cheese and immediately start tossing. Pour in the guanciale/wine mixture and continue tossing until everything looks creamy. If the sauce looks too tight, add some of the pasta cooking water and keep working it in to loosen it.
To serve, twirl portions into warm bowls and top with more Pecorino and black pepper. Serve right away.
